Simul climbing with micro traxion 2022. They hope to set a precedent for future ascents. What gives? Anyone know what this is about or knows of a round profile biner with a lanyard hole? The Petzl Micro Traxion has become an essential piece of hardware for modern crevasse rescue methods. It is a little more expensive but worth it. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of climbing? What's are the risks? Mar 5, 2018 · Would like to get thoughts on progress capture options when simul-climbing on doubles. Wie sicher ist die Verwendung von Umlenkrollen mit Rücklaufsperre beim Nachsichern? Tests mit einem Micro Traxion (Petzl) bringen Aufklärung. I have a few ideas, but don't want to stifle the discussion, so give me the best strategies you have. * This is an ‘off-label’ use of the device. Apr 6, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Just taking a pit stop before climbing is the free way to reduce the weight you carry. ). I think a problem is that the teeth can mar the rope a little, and it could theoretically get stuck in the open position as you're climbing, but that's why you have a backup, right? May 1, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Aug 31, 2022 · 4 hutchymh 01 Sep 2022 In reply to serotoninisaid: Obviously everyone's trust in different devices varies however I use a shunt as my primary and back it up with a micro traxion (2 strands). Could you possibly add a 'Simul-Climbed' (aka Moving Together) option to the ascent styles? It's especially useful for logging Alpine routes, or easy trad routes, where it's often favourable to move fast, roped together, placing occasional pieces of gear, over easier ground. We used a combination of simul-climbing with inline Traxion belays, pull-cord resupplies, fix and following, FiFi release hauling, lead-line hauling, tag-line hauling, and more both to move fast enough and manage the weight. Simul-climbing (or using a running-belay) is a climbing technique where a pair of climbers who are attached by a rope simultaneously ascend a multi-pitch climbing route. With a single the GriGri/microtraxion combo is the go-to. Let's have a closer look the two suitable for alpine climbing, the Micro Traxion and relatively new Nano Traxion. After an awkward/slippery/thin move on lead I place a piece ASAP, attach the micro traxion to the rope and clip it to the pro. Petzl highly recommends that the TIBLOC is used with round profile carabiners, but they suggest the hole on the S'MD carabiner (NOT round C-section) is for loss prevention of a TIBLOC. Apr 5, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Simul-climbing greatly cuts these time losses down as both climbers move simultaneously for a large portion of the climb. Simul climbing is a technique where all climbers move at the same time while tied into the same rope. Is it a solid choice for glacier travel as well or is something like the tried and true microtraxion a better option? We tested some other devices on ropes after putting out • Petzl said to NEVER do this a few days ago about micro traxions and having requests for other devices. The length of rope used during simul climbing varies but is often between 15 and 30m. Oct 21, 2022 · The Petzl Traxion is a handy device for many different climbing situations, including ascending a rope. I'm curious from everybody else: how do you feel about the actual safety of the technique? favorite carabiner/pcd? any caveats with what you've used? Jan 20, 2022 · A scenario more realistic to the simul-climbing situation would be the follower falling 1m with 30-60m of rope absorbing the impact, a more mild fall factor of 0. Mar 29, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Sep 5, 2024 · Quentin Roberts writes about one of the most badass first ascents in recent memory: His mind-bending—and Piolet-winning—trip up Jirishanca’s previously unclimbed Southeast Ridge, in 2022. 9 Dec 6, 2021 · The key difference with the Micro, beyond size and weight; there’s no cam lock-out function. Toothed devices are intended to be progress captures up a climbing rope or in a complex pulley system. I will sometimes carry a microtrax on harder and longer routes "just in case" but honestly, the only two times I actually really bring one are rope soloing and long simul situations. Jun 26, 2012 · The Petzl Mini Traxion, this is the best and lightest hauling device for hauling small loads after the Petzl Micro Traxion. I use a micro traxion for solo toprope ice climbing and it works great. How? We followed on toprope solo. It could range > Ropeman has a toothless cam, which people seem to think is an advantage for simul-climbing & solo toproping. MICRO TRAXION is a compact and lightweight progress-capture pulley (85 g) designed for crevasse rescue, hauling, and self-rescue, and for use as an emergency ascender. These are handy for self rescue, and by having four devices you will allow yourself to maximise any long simul climbing blocks. Simul climbing technique and risk? My partner and I have been thinking of simul climbing to increase our efficiency on easy big walls. Mar 4, 2016 · Simul-climbing is my preferred method when climbing long and easy routes, like Saber Ridge, Royal Arches, N. That’s the reason I contact you. Protection is placed by the first climber and removed by the last. Dec 30, 2023 · Each climber should have a Tibloc and Micro Traxion, so between a team of 2 you end up with two Micro Traxions and two Tiblocs. Simul-climbing is an advanced skill that can save time and increase a team's speed if done well, but which also creates obvious and not-so-obvious risks if done poorly. This technique allows climbers to extend the length of their pitches, without extending the length of their rope. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys and SE Ridge Trip Date: 08/19/2022 Trip Report: Background Back in May of this year (2022) I had offered to start up a 'climbing club' for my coworkers, to offer people a chance to get into the sport with minimal cost and also to continue maintain my own climbing instructional skills. [4] A fall by either climber is serious, and a 2019 article in Outside said "That's why there's a simple rule of simul-climbing: don't fall. Dec 13, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Petzl Micro-Traxion Pulley (P53) Description An ultra-light ultra-compact locking (or progress-capture) pulley that is exceptionally efficient (91 %) thanks to its sealed ball bearings. I also look into whether or not these devices actually cause s Simul-climbing is an advanced and potentially dangerous technique. Reply reply Dec 26, 2023 · In reply to jafferton91: I've done the 2nd option: 3 climbers equally spaced. My main suggestion with simul climbing would be to try to have a micro-traxion or similar between the leader and the next climber whenever a fall is possible (i. Also reckoned to be the the best device around for self top-roping Oct 19, 2021 · Ready to venture into big wall adventures, but not sure which is the best rock climbing pulley? Are you figuring out if you want an auto-locking pulley to self-belay or to use for simul-climbing, so that a fall from the lower climber will not pull the upper climber from the rock face? There are many climbing pulleys on the market that could satisfy your pulley-related needs. Here are some pros and cons based on research and personal experience, along with tips to develop simul-climbing skills. The Mini Traxion's invention created a self-belay revolution. Petzl's Micro-Traxion is the smallest of their progress capture pulleys, highly efficient and ultra small. The Micro Traxion is an improvement on the Mini Traxion as it is lighter, smaller and more efficient at hauling. Jan 28, 2004 · Re: Re: Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free I've used micro traxion or grigri a lot for rope-soloing (without backup) while equipping new routes. May 8, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Aug 2, 2022 · The most obvious thing to get would be a micro traxion (or similar Edelrid Spoc, nano traxion). 13a; 3,000 ft) in a day without any support or rehearsal. If we are talking about simul-climbing on the way up a route, I've done that quite a lot, usually it's just a way of extending a pitch - when the rope goes tight, the 2nd starts climbing and the leader just keeps going till they run out of gear, then belays and brings the second up as normal. Great tip. How do you simul climb with micro traxion? Nov 29, 2016 · Make no mistake, simul-climbing does not have certain safety measures that are inherent in a pitched climbing system (details are discussed in Section 3: "Pitfalls of the modern simul-climbing systems"). Dec 23, 2022 · Simultaneous climbing (simul-climbing) and short-fixing are advanced techniques that can help experienced climbers when attempting in-a-day ascents on grade V and VI routes on big walls and in the high country. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. However, in hindsight, I would opt to place the micro on my right gear loop for easier slack feeding. However, this reduced version of Traxion is fully functional as a progress capture pulley and ascending device, just not a stand-alone pulley. When done safely, faster climbing means more climbing and more fun! It becomes reasonable to climb fully protected 500’+ simul-pitches with constant movement. This model includes a blocker that improves the rolling of the balls. Buy Petzl Micro Traxion - Golden, Pulleys from Climbing equipment with the best offers. I want to know the best and safest ways to go about this. Many people (who simul and solo) would say: micro trax has teeth and therefore better for simul and solo as it will catch yet offers little friction. if you wouldn't feel comfortable without a rope). Good stuff here for sure. By all means, use a Gri-Gri, or whatever you feel most comfortable with. Petzl states both the Micro and Nano pulleys work at 91% efficiency when used as a ratchet. Often, we just take a 70m 7. Having a micro traxion was key to making this safe since about 15' after leaving the belay, we had to pull a cruxy 5. Petzl Micro Traxion. Here are a few different ways to set it up. That's a lot of abuse! Finally, I use a micro-traxion for simul-climbing and jumars for route cleaning, and these tests translate to those scenarios as well. Sep 27, 2022 · This is a public service announcement to keep Micro Traxion Belays to low loads scenarios. An In-depth comparison between the Petzl MICRO TRAXION and the Climbing Technology ROLLNLOCK. . I understand that slack between the micro trax and the 2nd would increase damage to Nov 29, 2016 · Make no mistake, simul-climbing does not have certain safety measures that are inherent in a pitched climbing system (details are discussed in Section 3: "Pitfalls of the modern simul-climbing systems"). Feb 12, 2012 · Amazon. Apr 22, 2022 · The duo free climbed Freerider (5. Aug 25, 2022 · I free climbed one of the world's hardest alpine routes despite carrying the weight of a multi-day pack. Designed for crevasse rescue, hauling, self-rescue and can be used as emergency ascender. The basic concept is that the leader starts the pitch with a normal belay. What gives? Anyone know what this is about or knows of a round profile biner with a lanyard hole? Nov 28, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I haven't come across the two 'followers' close together method. The short chapter on simul-climbing alone was worth the $10. The MICRO TRAXION is an ultra-light (85 g), ultra-compact progress-capture pulley that is exceptionally efficient (91 %) thanks to its sealed ball bearings. Jun 26, 2019 · I started simul-climbing and following Ryder for our last 80m mega-pitch. Jun 24, 2022 · Had a lively chat with partner at the gym yesterday and would love to hear opinions Which is more dangerous, simul-climbing or rope-soloing? Of course, you could say, "it depends", but what is the general consensus? Which would you be more comfortable doing? Please discuss! Climbing is dangerous and simul-climbing makes it more so. For cache management, I relied on a Micro-traxion also attached to my belay loop. \bThere are are lots of crafty ways to use it that may be new to you, and also some common mistakes you want to avoid. Mar 6, 2025 · Belaying a follower with a Petzl Microtraxion? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. In the book we suggest gadgets like the micro-traxion are key simul-climbing tools. Nov 15, 2006 · I self-top-rope quite a lot on a micro traxion, which is essentially no different, but I do feel much happier with a second device backing it up, preferably on a separate rope (more gear to lug around and faff to set up, but preferable while on the rock to pissing about with backup knots as a redundancy measure). Its structure is made up of watertight balls, lockable cam in open position to use as a simple pulley. Basically any where that a pulley, an ascender, and especially both would be useful this device shines. "Why use a toothed cam that can damage the rope when there are much better options available?". 03 or less, which would impact a micro-traxion placed in the system far less. The locking stopper can be locked in the raised position for use as a simple pulley. com : PETZL - Micro Traxion, Ultralight Progress Capture Pulley : Climbing Pulleys : Sports & OutdoorsIn the event your product doesn't work as expected or you need help using it, Amazon offers free product support options such as live phone/chat with an Amazon associate, manufacturer contact information, step-by-step troubleshooting guides, and help videos. Using it as a top rope belay, I could easily see a situation where the rope gets caught to the side of the follower (say in a flake), resulting in a pendulum-ing fall resulting in a failure mode like described in the Petzl guide. Using one won’t remove the danger, but if used sensibly it makes it a little safer. On doubles a Megajul makes a passable replacement for a GriGri, but looking for thoughts on the progress capture part of the equation. As you can see from the photos the new TIBLOC is actually lighter than a medium length prusik! So; lighter than a prusik cord (won’t abrade/degrade in UV either), grips icy ropes better, lighter than the old On that kind of terrain, your biggest time saving by far (assuming you're both competent with your systems and efficient switch-overs), is going to come from being able to quickly transition into and out of simul climbing and picking the right system for the section, depending on ability and difficulty. I completely agre with you and the probability of rope damage, I just think its odd Petzl outlines these setups in their manual. It accomplishes this via a lightweight, self- > Ropeman has a toothless cam, which people seem to think is an advantage for simul-climbing & solo toproping. Leader hauls kit on tag P21-22: Preload traxion for midpitch deployment, simul sewer leaving traxion below block roof (not on lip bolt, FF1 risk!). Dec 22, 2023 · Petzl Micro Traxion – #1 Most Wanted and #1 Most Owned Ascender The range of applications for the Micro Traxion is huge. Jan 22, 2025 · Sling Jams Micro Traxion, Sending Climber into 30-foot Groundfall After her fall, Whitney Clark crawled for 2. [1] Simul-climbing is not free solo climbing Petzl Micro Traxion Pulley Micro Traxion is a pulley recommended for climbing. Jul 19, 2014 · > Ropeman has a toothless cam, which people seem to think is an advantage for simul-climbing & solo toproping. Sealed ball Any opinions on progress capture pulleys for mountaineering? It seems like lots of climbing forums like the RollnLock pulley but most of the conversation is around solo TR. Which is one time too many. If you get a high enough force, it can desheath your rope and possibly cut through it. Versatility of use: - serrated rope stopper with groove for eliminating Mar 19, 2024 · Our ascent was a logistical puzzle that required modern multipitch techniques and many hours of planning to solve. Oct 29, 2018 · Though marginally more bulky than the original the new TIBLOC sits perfectly alongside my MICRO TRAXION on a pulley carabiner as my ‘hope I never have to use it’ crevasse rescue kit. The MICRO TRAXION is an ultra-light, ultra-compact progress-capture pulley that is exceptionally efficient thanks to its sealed ball bearings. Aug 26, 2024 · Manage Slack – It is imperative with any “toothed” PCD to have minimal slack in the system as the second is climbing. This little device can be expediently used to haul a victim out with less rigging than traditional systems. Additionally, I’d consider backing up the gear loop with a sling in case the blocker knots got sucked into the Micro-traxion during a fall. Mar 5, 2018 · Would like to get thoughts on progress capture options when simul-climbing on doubles. 5 hours down talus and scree to reach a rescue helicopter, but ultimately suffered only minor injuries. Hans Florine does a great job describing a simul-climbing strategy in his book Speed Climbing! For cache management, I relied on a Micro-traxion also attached to my belay loop. Ridge of Conness, etc. By solving product issues It’s a 22gram saving over the micro traxion, honestly unless you’re literally shaving material off your biners to save weight (which is fucking stupid and no one should ever do it). Simul-climbing is a fast and efficient way to keep the team moving on easy and varied terrain. Lowering in an emergency is sooooo much easier than either a mirco or an atc/plate, and it doesn't inhibit any other aspect of climbing for me. It offers more protection than ropeless solo climbing, and allows the team to smoothly transition into traditional belayed climbing if they encounter a harder section of rock. We got together early every Thursday and worked on rope skills, gear What are two different non-toothed devices (that do not require managing slack) that can be used to top rope solo. I’m thinking about setting up a Petzl Rescucender as my main device with a backup. Compared to the Mini Traxion model, the weight of this device is reduced by 50%. Find outdoor deals in Trekkinn | Fast delivery Die Simul-Climbing Technik mit Tibloc oder Micro Traxion verwende ich allerdings oft, wenn es in alpinen Touren schnell gehen soll und ein bisschen weniger Speed als in der Nose gefragt ist. Why do we simul climb? Simul-climbing is a fast and efficient way to keep the team moving on easy and varied terrain. However on long routes it is well worth knowing how to do it so you can get over easy terrain as quickly as possible and to remove the odd belay. Jun 28, 2025 · It’s indispensable for multiple types of climbing from big walls, to long routes with simul climbing, it’s useful in different rope soloing systems, and any time glacier travel is involved. [1] Contemporary simul-climbers use progress capture devices (PCDs) — such a Micro Traxion — at some of the protection points Dec 23, 2022 · Simultaneous climbing (simul-climbing) and short-fixing are advanced techniques that can help experienced climbers when attempting in-a-day ascents on grade V and VI routes on big walls and in the Aug 22, 2022 · We planned to link the first few pitches by simul-climbing so we made sure to bring our Micro Traxion by Petzl to protect the leader in the event that the follower took a fall. May 24, 2024 · MICRO TRAXION Ultra-compact progress capture pulley with high efficiency MICRO TRAXION is an ultra-compact and ultra-light progress capture pulley with a high performance. Some of my favorite days out have been swapping leads through 120m pitches and getting a huge amount of mileage in in just a few hours. " [5] In simul-climbing, the strongest climber goes second. Apr 9, 2018 · Simul-climbing is an advanced skill that can save time and increase a team's speed if done well, but which also creates obvious and not-so-obvious risks if done poorly. Jul 4, 2022 · This is an option if there’s a disparity in free-climbing level between the leader and follower; it’s also good for steep routes where the second might fall and swing out from the wall. Sep 4, 2022 · Trip: Mt. [1] It contrasts with lead climbing where the leader ascends a given pitch on the route while the second climber remains in a fixed position to belay the leader in case they fall. > Ropeman has a toothless cam, which people seem to think is an advantage for simul-climbing & solo toproping. Continue simuling into flakes pitch, but follower stops at block and waits to fix and follow (no great midpitch cams for a Traxion). The Micro Traxion is an ultra-light, ultra-compact progress-capture pulley that is exceptionally efficient thanks to its sealed ball bearings. High-efficiency lightweight progress-capture pulley MICRO TRAXION is a compact and lightweight progress-capture pulley (85 g) designed for crevasse rescue, hauling, and self-rescue, and for use as an emergency ascender. Dec 23, 2022 · Simul-climbing is a fast and efficient way to keep the team moving on easy and varied terrain. Detailed description Description Ultra compact and very light. Protection is placed by a pseudo-leader and the second removes the pieces of gear. I'm just wondering to what extent, and how this can be minimized. Not sure about the nano though. Doing a speed read of it now and coming across a lot of new ideas, and I consider myself quite an experienced multi-pitch climber (Yosemite, Red Rocks, Squamish, El Potrero Chico, etc. I’ve heard that toothed devices such as a micro traxion can damage the sheath on a rope or even cut a rope. The cam can be locked in the open position so the device can be used as a simple pulley. I'm aware there have been cases of shunts failing for TRS however they have been used to great effect by many people without back ups also. The micro traxion has disengaged once, versus the grigri never (obvs - there's no catch). ___more Oct 13, 2022 · The Petzl Micro Traxion features a toothed cam with self cleaning slot, ideal for frozen or muddy ropes. Won't be as good for your tree work as a handled ascender like an ascension, but has loads of climbing uses, from top rope solo and self rescue as you mentioned, to hauling and simul climbing. It is designed for crevasse rescue, hauling, self-rescue and as an emergency ascender. Nov 4, 2012 · Then better check with an expert. Learn all about the Tibloc, starting with how to properly pronounce it! Nov 7, 2022 · The Traxion series of progress capture pulleys, made by Petzl, are an increasingly popular piece of gear. [1] Simul-climbing is not free solo climbing Feb 6, 2021 · The simul-climbing setup with the microtrax is very situational and very high potential consequence. Aug 19, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Aug 4, 2020 · The Petzl Tibloc, an ultralight emergency ascender, is a very handy piece of gear. Follower tries to catch up to reduce drag for top have of sewer. Never heard of using a mini/micro traxion to protect the leader. I know that a toothed device will damage the rope in the event of a fall. There is a Petzl data sheet detailing the use of the Tibloc for simul-climbing protection, however Petzl strongly advise against using a Tibloc for self-belayed solo which unless I’m mistaken is a configuration rather similar to that of the second in simulclimbing. Originally conceived as a much smaller and lighter duty version of the popular big wall hauler, the Pro Traxion, the Micro is a staple in just about any haul kit. Jul 4, 2013 · When simul climbing I carry a micro traxion (or two if my partner have another one). 3 days ago · 657 likes, 12 comments - climbingmagazine on July 16, 2025: "On April 13, 2025, 20-year-old Will Moss taught himself to lead rope solo with a Grigri+ and Micro Traxion. 7mm ice twin and tie it as a 35m twin, take a half a trad rack and go. I've also heard too Aug 11, 2013 · How would simul-climbing with the minitrax be different than glacier travel? When looking at a fall. I’d rather be safe then sorry. Jan 31, 2008 · I have a lot of experience solo top-roping with a Pro-Traxion, and that seems to make sense to me for simul-climbing if I wanted to use one that way. This should be manageable given the lack of resistance when pulling rope, especially through the Petzl Nano Traxion and Petzl Micro Traxion. Dec 30, 2015 · I'm specifically interested in using a Micro Trax, Kong Duck, or Ropeman to protect a 2nd falling while simul climbing. Mar 6, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. That being said, using the methods we describe in this article will greatly decrease the dangers associated with basic simul-climbing. You’ll need two locking carabiners, one non-locker, a 48-inch sling, a Grigri, and a Tibloc/Micro Traxion. Feb 27, 2023 · It is common at climbing areas around the world to use a single Micro Traxion for toprope soloing. There are no documented reports of its failure to engage during dynamic loading, although I have heard some campfire talk about it happening. Simul climbing From Wikipedia: Simul climbing or climbing with a running belay is a climbing method or style where both climbers, climb at the same time while tied into the rope. Thanks in advance. e. Hence it isn’t for everyone. vew mfkjm ivgxf mpvusy canneq lnav dleyf znmqo ndge ydksst